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St. Maarten

 
Frommer's Guide
FEATURES AND EVENTS
The Dutch Side of Paradise

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The Dutch Side of Paradise
by Adam Davis
Manager, Editorial and Promotional Content

 Nuts and Bolts

Locale: Sint Maarten

Nearest Airport:
Queen Juliana Airport (SXM)

General Information:
For more Caribbean information, visit our Caribbean Destination Guides

beachCome to Sint Maarten to relax, mon. Sip that guavaberry colada, toast yourself golden-brown in the Caribbean sun, fill up on some spicy plantain and chicken satay, hit the blackjack table at Casino Royale, then wake up late the next day, walk out onto your balcony, and knock your lobes to that reggae rhythm floating up from the poolside bar. Relaaax.

Then, when you’re done relaxing, take some time to explore the Dutch side of this beautiful little island. Sint Maarten offers a whole lot more than just beaches and casinos, so whether you’re into sailing, shopping, active pursuits, or fine dining, you’re sure to find plenty of diversions to give you a break from the sun and make your vacation a lot more fun. Here are a few choice activities to consider when planning your trip:

America’s Cup for Sail
12metreReady to try something only a handful of people in the world will ever do? Here’s your chance to race a real America’s Cup sailboat up and down the coast of Sint Maarten. The 12-Metre Challenge (tel: 599-542-0045) pits two of these world-class vessels against each other in a mock America’s Cup Regatta, with you and your fellow tourists as the crew. Each participant learns a specific job, such as operating the backstay grinder or trimming the headsail. Once everyone in the “crew” has a handle on his or her job, the race begins and the thrill of competitive sailing takes over. Be prepared for hair-raising turns, harrowing tilts of the keel, and close brushes with your competitors. Wondering just how good these boats are? One of them happens to be Dennis Conner’s Stars & Stripes, winner of the 1987 America’s Cup. Races depart from Bobby’s Marina in Philipsburg. Cost is approximately $75 per person.

Shopping on Front and Back Streets
Philipsburg isn’t just the capital of Sint Maarten, it’s also a postcard-perfect colonial town where you’ll find two quaint streets lined with pastel-painted stores selling everything from European perfumes and fine liqueurs to Caribbean artwork and designer watches. And it’s all duty- and tax-free--although this doesn’t necessarily mean you’re getting a bargain. Jewelry is a hot item in Philipsburg, but if you’re a serious shopper it’s best to know what you’re looking for and what it should cost. With that in mind, you just might find yourself flying home with that pair of emerald earrings you’ve always wanted.

Kayaking on Simpson Bay Lagoon
It’s sometimes hard to appreciate the serenity of the Caribbean islands when you’re being shuttled from place to place along the local highways. Kayaking out on Simpson Bay Lagoon is a wonderful way to slow down, take a closer look, and get a fantastic workout all at once. TriSport Eco-Adventures on Simpson Bay (tel. 599-545-4384) rents out kayaks for about $15/hour. Guided kayak tours range from about $35-$49. A word of caution: Depending on wind conditions, kayaking can be very strenuous--and when you’re out on the bay, there’s no place to hide from the powerful Caribbean sun. Wear a hat and sunscreen and be sure to bring a bottle of water onto the kayak with you.

Plane Fun at Maho Bay
planeAre you like me? Do you love airplanes? If so, you’ll want to stop off at Maho Bay, where you can stand on a little crescent of beach and watch everything from single-engine Cessnas to enormous Boeing 747s as they roar a mere 50 feet overhead en route to the runway at Queen Juliana Airport. If hanging out directly below the landing path is too nerve-wracking for you, take a front-row seat at the nearby Sunset Bar, where can also catch a cold beverage and some shade. And don’t forget to bring a camera so you can prove to your friends that you were as close to these planes as you say you were.

Exploring French Saint Martin
Okay, so what about the French side? C’est bon. Really good. And you should probably spend some time there. Start off with a day trip to Pinel Island (Ilet Pinel), accessible by boat from Orient Beach. There you’ll find excellent reefs for snorkeling, a restaurant, and one of French Saint Martin’s most secluded stretches of coastline. In the late afternoon, head back to the main island, find somewhere to wash up and change into your evening wear, then make your way to a French restaurant in the little town of Grand-Case, where the food is known to satisfy even the most sophisticated connoisseurs of French cuisine.•


Inside Scoop
Don’t Drink and Walk?
Sint Maarten/Saint Martin is a unique island, even by Caribbean standards. It’s Dutch on one side (Sint Maarten), French on the other (Saint Martin), and distinctly Caribbean all over. How this came to be is a complex bit of history involving none other than Christopher Columbus himself, but the local legend is a lot more fun…

It’s told that a Dutchman and a Frenchman agreed to split sovereignty of this little dollop of paradise by starting back-to-back at Oyster Pond and walking the island’s perimeter until meeting up on the other side. The Dutchman set off with a flask of gin, while the Frenchman carried a bottle of wine and a baguette. Along the way, the Dutchman, drinking his Geneve on an empty stomach, got a bit more inebriated than the Frenchman, whose bread had soaked up the wine. When they finally reached each other, the tipsy Dutchman hadn’t covered as much ground as the Frenchman. The result: French Saint Martin occupies 21 square miles of the island, while Dutch Sint Maarten lays claim to only 16 square miles. To this day the debates (usually light-hearted) continue as to which ruling nation got the better deal. You’ll have to decide for yourself, but beware crossing this heavily patrolled border. Ha ha, just kidding. The border is so wide open that if you blink you might not even realize you’ve crossed it at all.

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